There are two different designs for this project: a “smaller cube” for our 2mm pitch 64x64 matrices, or “bigger cube” for 2.5mm matrices with curb-cut frames. The 2mm design is particularly challenging, not just for its size, but because the stock frames must be carefully removed from the matrices and replaced with our 3D-printed design. Skim through the steps and take some time to reflect on your personal degree of patience and kit-building skill.

Once you choose a design and have parts ordered, you can start on the 3D printing, which might take several days to complete. The next few pages discuss the 3D parts…but if the printer’s still working, you can skip ahead to get started on the electronics, then return to this section later.

Happy Little Dumpster Fire.

Dumpster Dateien sind die hier: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5084117/files
Das Feuer ist von hier: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5156430

Das Feuer habe ich im Slicer einfach so skaliert, dass es genau in das Loch passt.

A large flower inspired by the well-known Lego-flowers.

You can either print it in original scale so you get a x10 scale flower or scale it down by 50% to get a x5 scale one (that would e.g. match the wooden lego minifigure).

It's designed to be printed without supports.

There's also an alternative version of the flower available, that can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/158017-large-brick-flower-alternative-version

The parts are interchangeable so you can create whatever flower type you like.

I uploaded a v2 of the stem to give it a cleaner look

This clip was design to fix/repair/secure the broken or loose tab of a RJ45 Ethernet connector and avoid crimping. Designed to prevent from moving, wiggling, falling from the connector and easy to install.

The GRIZ Sextant is an expression of my love of 80s computers. But what computers exactly? There is a multitude of wild machines from the 80s to choose from but in the end, I ended up choosing a somewhat surprising choice as my design inspiration, the GRID Compass.

It is difficult to properly describe my fascination with 80s computers. As a child of the 90s I did not grow up with Commodore or Tandy machines and did not pick up a mouse and keyboard until the Windows 95 era. So why the obsession with machines for an era I was not alive to see?

For me personally, there are multiple reasons. First, as someone who works in engineering and product design, I am fascinated by the design effort that went into machines before the era of computer aided design. I do not know what I would do without Solidworks in my day-to-day engineering life so the thought of designing a complex piece of consumer electronics without CAD is both awe inspiring and horrifying. Second, like many in the Cyberdeck community I am drawn to the styling’s of 80s products.

Petrolicious on Youtube features a video about the Lamborghini Countach and claims it comes from a time ‘When Outrageous was Possible’. I think this same sentiment can be applied to the computers of the 1980s.

It struck me to put this together when I saw how close in size the 7" touchscreen, battery cells, and crkbd folded vertically that I had sitting on my desk were. And I I needed a build that was actually functional for normal computer stuff, so this seemed like a good idea.
It turns out that this is a pretty functional setup. The 7" display is okay as long as I fullscreen stuff. Alt+F11 works with a lot of stuff so far. I've been able to use onshape cad in firefox. It's a little slow, but works as long as firefox doesn't have issues with gfx acceleration. Console stuff and web browsing are great!

The basic case consists of the two parts: front and back, which can be srewed together by using either standard M3 hex nuts or heat inserts.

Micro SD box

Tips:
You can print it standing, no need to rotate (and no need for supports).
You can adjust the tightness by adjusting the filament flow option in your slicer software.

A snap-together derivative of Mattraptions' Mini Desk Lamp.

Modified by Skimbal to use Tony Buser's snap fittings.
Instructions

Print all three plates.

Snap the arm togeather using the images as a guide.

Snap the Arm into the base.

Snap the Lamp onto the arm.

Add a light.

Smile.

YARH.IO is a fully hackable and custamizable Raspberry Pi based handheld, running Raspberry Pi OS and supporting all other Operating Systems available for Raspberry Pi.

This .stl file was produced by scaling the original model and converting it directly to .stl format; it may not yet be ideal for printing. We welcome your feedback on your experience.
Description

Author/Origin: Eyes on the Solar System. NASA/JPL-Caltech
Relevant Mission: Rosetta
Date Added: July 9, 2012
Polygons: 8867
Vertices: 18054
Keywords: 3D Model, Spacecraft, Satellite, Eyes on the Solar System, Rosetta
GitHub Repository: Rosetta

We understand that 3D printing often involves trial and error. If you have to make adjustments or changes when printing these models, please share your experience with us:
arc-special-proj@lists.nasa.gov

These are clamps for the prusa i3 mk2/3 for transport. They will fix the belts and the Z-Axis. This is a remix of the original prusa transportation clips.

Note "Z-axis nut" is also needed for X-Axis fix

Additional hardware:

3x M3x20 cylinder head screws
3x M3 square nuts

I’ve found the perfect enclosure for my Prusa i3 MK3 3D printer (no modification needed!). It’s a cheap server wall mount cabinet for only 79,- EUR. You can find it on ebay or in different computer online shops. It has 4 mm safety glass and powder coated sheet metal walls. The roof and bottom have cable entries and the roof is also prepared for mounting 2 x single fans. That may come in handy if you want to build a fume exhaust for ABS printing.

This cabinet is available in different sizes and colors. But you need the biggest one (with 15 Height Units and 600mm depth) and the Prusa i3 will fit perfectly. Also the heat bed cable on the backside of the i3 has enough space without touching the enclosure, no modification needed. Since this thing was meant to be mounted on a wall it’s baseplate is not that sturdy. Don’t use rubber feet directly on the bottom side of the enclosure it will be too wobbly! Instead screw a thick plywood board to the bottom side to give the enclosure more stability. On that plywoodboard you can now fix some rubber feet to it if you want to use it on your desk.

As a fan of Adam Savage's Tested I of course had to build his custom workbench LED lamp! So I designed a mount for the lamp to the Loc-Line system and a base to mount it to the table!

Update 8/12/18: Added vertical_extension_plate. This lets you join extension tables to the main table along the direction of the blade. You will need to use screws to use this; it uses the holes in the legs of the tables. Note that this does limit the use of the fence.

Update 12/13/17: Added a storage spot for the Router Support Plate under the left and right Flex Holder Table. Uses two 10mm M3 screws.

This is a transformable and adjustable rotary tool based table saw / disc sander / shaper for use with the Dremel Flex Shaft attachment. The Flex Shaft should fit most rotary tools, but be sure to check.

Lets you:

Mount cutting discs to perform straight or angled cuts thin wood, pcb's, screws, plastic parts, etc of any length.
Mount sanding dics for disc sanding.
Mount sanding drum or grinding bits in the shaper configuration for spindle sanding/ grinding.
Mount other bits for other operations that I haven't thought of.

I was inspired to make one of Adam Savage's awesome custom LED workbench lights (link below), but wanted a more flexible mounting option. I'm a big fan of the one-handed quick clamps and thought this type of solution would be ideal. I decided to use a Harbor Freight 12 in ratcheting clamp ($3.99) as the core and designed mount for the lamp that would replace the far end of the clamp. My goal was to incorporate all of the clamp parts making it a direct swap.

I also wanted to be able to plug and unplug a power supply from the lamp so I made a wiring harness our of some standard male and female barrel connectors that I have a bunch of for other LED projects. I designed a press-fit hole for the female connector end and a slot for the rest of the connector wire... it's working fine so far.

This is the first version and I did not quite hit my goal, the bolt is not quite long enough for where the nut trap is and I am apprehensive about making it deeper which would not leave a lot of material between the nut and the clamp bar. In the meantime, I am just using a longer bolt and large washer.

The one I am testing now was printed with 40% infill and 6 layer walls all around.

Michael Gardi, who makes reproductions of vintage computers and computer-like games, went all out and built a DEC H-500 Computer Lab. He even posted a step-by-step Instructable on how to make your …

Spiel 1
Das erste Spiel ist für 1-4 Spiele gedacht. Es handelt sich um ein Spiel indem man einen festen Punkt „fangen“ muss. Es gibt eine laufende und einen stehende LED. Man muß jetzt mit seinem Taster genau im richtigen Moment, wenn die laufende LED die stehenden LED kreuzt, seinen Taster betätigen.
Wenn man alleine spielt, bekommt man einen Punkt, wenn man daneben liegt, bekommt man zwei Punkte abgezogen.
Wenn man mit zwei, drei oder vier Spielen spielt, ist das Punktesystem das selbe, es bekommt aber nur der den Punkt der auch als erstes gedrückt hat. Sollte der erstgedrückte daneben liegen, bekommt er natürlich auch die zwei Punkte abgezogen.
Dies geht über 30 Runden, die immer etwas schneller werden. Wer am Ende die meisten Punkte hat, der hat das Spiel gewonnen.

Spiel 2:
Das zweite Spiel ist ein reines Spiel für zwei Personen. Dabei handelt es sich um eine Art Aufbauspiel. Man hat gegenüberliegend seines Knopfes einen seiner Farbe entsprechenden eine farbige LED. Rot oder Grün. Daneben ist jeweils ein Blauer Punkt und viele Weiße. Die Weißen markieren das jeweilige Spielfeld. Sobald man das Spiel startet, kommt ein weiteres Licht hinzu welches die ganze Zeit von links nach rechts und zurück läuft. Man muß jetzt immer im blauen Feld drücken um sein Rotes oder Grünes Feld weiter aufzubauen. Wenn man an der falschen Stelle drückt, bekommt der Gegner 5 Züge Vorsprung. Wer als erstes das Spielfeld voll hat, hat gewonnen.

Build a time tracking cube! Flip the cube to switch between tasks so you can automate your time sheets. An accelerometer tracks orientation and neopixels light up each task.

Use Adafruit IO to log data into a feed and store timestamps of each task. Setup triggers in Zapier and create an action to update a google spreadsheet. Get the Adafruit Feather HUZZAH and start building your IoT projects.